Two Calvados in a row

Hints of Normandy

apple-based things

Two Calvados AOC tasted side by side, both long-aged and coming from very different approaches. One is a 19yo Calvados AOC bottled at 40%, the other a single cask released after more than three decades of ageing (in cognac cellars), bottled at cask strength. Same appellation, same raw material, but two distinct philosophies and ageing trajectories.

Huard 2004 19yo 40%

Another Huard on Hors d’Age, but not the same decade. I’m always impressed by the freshness of this single-distilled estate, so needless to say, I’ve got high expectations for this one.

Colour: Amber, gold lights. Heavy irregular tears.

Nose: Heady floral notes at first, on jasmine and orange blossom. More rustic than expected, with clear cider apple tones, but quickly followed by emerging rancio on nutty aromas. Light waxy shades in the background.

Palate: Smooth texture carrying ample fruitiness. Tinned pear and apricot jam. Pleasant bitter notes recalling NEIPA beer and orange zest marmalade. Broad floral expression on lychee and rosewater. A very delicate Calvados overall, quite unexpected both from a Calvados AOC (often more rustic) and from a 19yo spirit, where tannins and heavier rancio usually dominate.

Last notes: Lighter with air, becoming even more floral. Subtle honeyed tones. Strong aniseed and mentholated impressions. Fresh spices on white pepper and Sichuan pepper. The anise character confirms on the palate. Finish on lychee and verbena infusion.

A Calvados I genuinely love. I had tasted it a few years ago straight from the cask, but didn’t remember it being this refined. A beautiful surprise. Congrats JF, and cheers Loris!

89/100

Swell de Spirits #9 Flashback Series Prunier Calvados Lot 91 33yo 47,4%

This Calvados is part of Swell de Spirits’ Flashback Series. Distilled in 1991 and aged for 33 years in French oak within a humid cellar, it was bottled at 47.4%. Only 150 half-litre bottles were released, with no reduction or additives. An intriguing single-cask Calvados AOC from Prunier’s cellars.

Colour: Dark amber, orange lights. Irregular heavy tears.

Nose: Extreme profile right away, bursting with exotic fruit: passion fruit and papaya. One could almost mistake it for rum. Vinous and slightly oxidative notes, drifting toward certain sherry-like profiles. Intense nutty aromas, especially walnut kernel.

Palate: Exuberant and fully aligned with the nose. Exotic fruit again, now leaning toward roasted pineapple. High-acidity profile with lingering acidulous notes in the aftertaste. The structure almost recalls a Grande Champagne Cognac, not entirely surprising considering that one comes from Prunier’s cellars.

Last notes: Rounder with air, moving toward vanilla and assorted nutty tones. Roasted accents on coffee beans. Funky, salivating profile, though slightly lacking precision. Finish on hard cider and tangerine juice.

A very enjoyable, funky Calvados. One can’t help but wonder how it might have evolved with a few months in a very dry cellar before bottling, to sharpen the profile and gain precision. Still, a highly pleasurable dram.